If you have any questions on the above items, or you are not sure about something that is not addressed here, please do not hesitate to contact us. We have attempted to list all the most common items, but we realize every situation is different and this list may not include every aspect for your project. We would love to help you understand the process!

This question is one of the most popular ones we get during daily interaction with our customers. We offer a very complete package right from the start, so the answer to that question gets quite lengthy. This includes things like: complete exterior with log siding (protected with exterior sealer), double-pane insulated vinyl windows with shutters, insulated walls and ceilings, knotty pine interior with polyurethane finish, yellow pine solid wood floors, full electrical system including panel box, breakers, lights & ceiling fans, bathroom fixtures (even toilet paper & towel holders), solid pine kitchen cabinetry with dovetailed soft-close drawers, etc., etc. Even the shipping costs (within 50 miles), crane rental, setup costs, and taxes are all included! When a package is this inclusive it is sometimes easier to describe what we are not including.

Even though we try to make our package as complete as we can, there are still a number of things you will be responsible for completing. Some of our customers choose to hire a local dependable general contractor to pull all of these details together, while more adventurous folks opt to do the work themselves. The following is a list of your responsibilities.

While our homes already include a full set of drawings that are reviewed to ensure compliance with your local code, the actual acquisition of a building permit and other local building requirements are your responsibility. But since the plans have already had a code review, and our portion of the project will be factory-inspected, this process is typically much easier than it is for a site-built structure.

You will need a local excavator to level the site and/or dig the hole for the foundation. This same contractor typically installs a driveway and removes trees as well, if needed.

Your new home requires a crawl space foundation or a full basement. Your final plans will include a foundation layout with every  dimension your contractor needs to create a foundation design for your home. It can be constructed of your choice of: cinder blocks, poured concrete, precast walls, or insulated concrete forms (ICF). In addition to a perimeter wall, central supports are required where the two modules come together. This is typically accomplished with block piers for crawl space foundations. For basements a row of steel columns (every 6’-7’) can be used, or a steel I-beam and a couple steel columns for a more open feel.

After the foundation is installed, pressure treated sill plates must be added to the top of the wall and fastened using Simpson® straps or some other method which lets no fasteners protruding above the plate. Also, porches and decks will need a pier/girder system installed. This is typically constructed of pressure treated wood products (6x6 piers and a double 2x8 or 2x10 girder) and will be detailed on your foundation plan.

Insulation needs to be installed in your house floor to meet the energy requirements (unless you have an insulated/conditioned basement). This material is not provided and must be added after the under-floor plumbing is completed.

If you do not have an existing water supply or sewer system this can be added before or after your home is installed. Remember that on-site wells and septic systems require their own set of permits and approvals from your local code/zoning authority. Most times the excavator you hire to do the grading is also able to install an on-site septic system.

A panel box will be factory-installed in your home, but you will be responsible for bringing the power to the panel box. A service conduit will be provided through the floor for this connection. Or, if you are putting your home on a basement, we can temporarily tuck the panel box up under the floor and swing it down onto your basement wall when the home is set.

The plumbing is complete inside the home, but you need to complete the under-floor plumbing. All the water lines (PEX) and drains (PVC) will be stubbed through the floor below each fixture. After the home is in place your plumber will interconnect all these locations from below and connect them to your well and septic.

All exterior steps to porches, decks, and exterior doors will need to be installed after your final grading is done. Also, if you are on a basement we will create the stairwell opening, but the actual basement stairs will be your responsibility.

We recommend installing roof gutters and downspouts. We do not install them to allow narrower shipping widths and to prevent gutter damage during craning of the modules. This must be done by a local contractor.

Our packages do not include a heating system, though we do offer the option of electric baseboard heat as well as a through-the-roof wood stove chimney. Virtually any traditional heating system (including central heat/AC or radiant floor heat) can be installed by a local contractor.

We install all the kitchen cabinetry, counter tops, and faucets – but not the appliances (such as the range, refrigerator, and dishwasher). We find that most customers would rather choose these items themselves. The one location we do provide an appliance is above the range. Corner kitchens get a microwave, while simpler straight kitchens get a range hood.

And then, of course, there are furniture and window treatments (curtains, blinds, etc.) which are not provided. Decorate your Cozy Cabin with your own unique touch!

Some of the work done by local site contractors will be subject to inspection by your local municipality. And you will likely need a final “Occupancy Permit” before moving in. Recent energy codes now require special energy testing before granting the occupancy permit. This test is often called a ‘blower door test’ because a fan is installed in a door opening to depressurize the home and test it for air tightness. This will need done by a local testing agency of your choice.

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